Mounted in film format on the LVMH-owned label’s website, the show had a cinematic quality reflected in the drama of the clothes. Razor-sharp monochromatic tailoring rubbed hems with massive furry mittens, oversized parkas lined in shearling and shell-like slip-on sneakers.
The mood was very “Justin Bieber goes shoplifting on Savile Row” and the clothes seemed to be designed with that sense of duality firmly in mind. Working-from-home hoodies were worn with post-pandemic-ready suits and it felt both modern and fresh.
“In many ways, this collection is about a constant tension between two worlds. It’s about finding personal meaning in difficult circumstances; it’s about sincerity in what we do rather than strategy,” said Williams following the show. “We wanted to bring a sense of lived reality alongside precision, elegance and extravagance in the clothing and looks. Ultimately, fashion for us is a way of being, feeling and connecting rather than a game to be played. It’s almost like monumentalising the everyday, filling it with emotion – like music you can wear.”
Below, I’ve select my favourite looks from the collection, which will hit stores after the summer:
1. The extra accessories
Belcher chain necklaces, furry deerstalker balaclavas, angular bandana bags – oh, my! Razor-sharp silhouette of this dream “out out” suit aside, the tonal accessories add a comfort-focused edge to the look which feels very now. I’m secretly hoping for Beast From The East III next winter so that I can take those Yeti mittens out for a proper spin.
2. The trans-seasonal coat
From the on-point geometric lapel to the rakish silhouette of this trans-seasonal coat, the whole thing is peak Williams’ preferred sex-goth aesthetic. It’s light enough to wear at the end of spring, warm enough to wear at the end of autumn and angular enough to keep breathy strangers coming too close once we’re allowed to mingle once again. The be-horned balaclava will help too.
3. The parka
Big king crown and tonal faux-fur tabard aside, this oversized shearling-lined parka is giving me 21st-century Henry VIII energy, which is an energy we should probably all embrace once the world returns to full normal next winter: the more voluminous the layers, the harder for spatially challenged serfs to get too close. The charcoal-hued demi-wellies are also fabulous.
4. The overshirt
Part mackintosh, part shirt, this voluminous body shroud is elevated by a clever breast flap, which will also prove handy for carrying your face mask around in when, inevitably, we go back into lockdown. And just look at the cut of those trousers! There’s a certain Maoist charm to this look which I’m totally here for.
5. The suit
A chocolate-hued take on the clotted-cream one-and-a-half-breasted suit pictured above, the cut of this two-piece is as pin slim and perfect as you’d expect from a house as rooted in the heritage of haute couture as Givenchy. Teamed with the tonal snood, demi-wellies and massive mittens, the look is giving me later-life Just William and somehow it works.