Barkan, the renowned owner of a Tel Aviv modeling agency, has spent the
last few years bringing the problem of eating disorders in the modeling
community to light. While international demand for Israeli models has
increased, so too has his awareness of anorexia among young girls in
Israel and around the world. Just a few months ago he rushed
33-year-old Israeli model Hila Elmalich, who was suffering from
anorexia, to hospital after he found her collapsed unconscious on the
floor of her home. Elmalich, who worked with the Israeli branch of
modeling agency Elite International, died last week, weighing under 60
pounds.
Barkan's goal, through legislation and public relations, is to try
to change the very definition of beauty, one pound at a time. In 2004,
working with Knesset member Inbal Gavriely, he successfully submitted
legislation to Israel's Parliament requiring all Israeli modeling
agencies to use the Body Mass Index (BMI) as a pre-requisite for
employment (BMI is defined as an individual's weight divided by the
square of their height).
At a recent audition in Tel Aviv organized by the Israeli branch of
the Elite International agency, which in the wake of Elmalich's death
committed itself to employing models with a healthier BMI, Barkan
spread his message to members of the modeling community and media.
"When the day comes that a talent agent tells a girl, 'you're too
skinny', we'll have made a change," Barkan said. "But no one ever says
this. It starts with 'you just need to lose five pounds' and then it
doesn't stop."
It may be about to stop. Barkan's campaign is gaining steam, with
over 30 Israeli CEOs having agreed to hire models for their
advertisements only after they pass a health exam. In order to maintain
their certification to work, models will have to be screened every
three months, reaching a minimum level of health. With countries such
as France and Italy throwing their support behind this campaign, Barkan
hopes his crusade will change how young girls look at themselves.
Dr. Richard Even, an Israeli nutritionist, conducted exams at the
audition and advised models how to maintain a certain level of health.
According to Even, "there's a new sheriff in town and his name is Adi
Barkan." Speaking about the teens present, Even emphatically added "if
you don't take care of yourself, you won't be accepted."
The campaign for a healthier community is far from a one-man
effort. Many have backed Barkan including an organization called the
Israeli Center of Changing Eating Habits. While Even and others focus
on treatment and testing, this center is tackling perception and mental
health through outreach. One such effort took place on the Tel Aviv
beach last summer: a fashion show highlighted healthy models who passed
the minimum standards of Barkan's tests, and passersby learned about
healthy eating from experts. By changing how young people view beauty,
the hope is to reduce eating disorders not only among aspiring models,
but also among young girls in Israel and around the world.
In addition to sending out a message of health, the recent audition
also served as a reminder that Israel is a hotbed of more than just
politics. One of the biggest modeling agencies in the world, Elite
International sent international director of scouting Michaela Goddard
to Tel Aviv to recruit the next generation of Refaelis and Ginzburgs.
Aspiring stars, some as young as 15, sat with Goddard and
representatives of the international and local branches of Elite to
sell themselves as more than just beautiful faces.
So what is it about Israelis that lures talent scouts from fashion
capitals like Milan and Paris? "They have very strong characters,"
explains Goddard, "maybe because of what they've been through living
here. Personality is half the battle in this industry; it comes through
in photos." The long-time talent expert echoes what many have claimed
about Israel's deep pool of "talent": it's in the mixing.
A melting pot of immigrants from all over the world, Israel boasts
an exotic blend of blondes, brunettes, and citizens of all shades and
colors. The mass arrivals of Ethiopians and Russians since the 1980s
has only increased the diversity of its populace. With nearly every
look imaginable, Israel's modeling industry can meet the needs of
almost any talent agent; thus, an increase in demand from Elite and
other international agencies.
Witness current stars Bar Refaeli and Esti Ginzburg. Refaeli,
barely old enough to purchase alcohol in America, has already graced
the cover of the fabled Sports Illustrated swimsuit issue. Ginzburg, not even old enough to vote in the States, has nevertheless appeared on the cover of the French Elle magazine and is already working throughout Europe and New York.
It appears that the sky may be the limit for young Israeli models,
at least the ones deemed to be of adequate health. "We're not just
agents; we're parents and psychologists," said Goddard. "It's not just
our job to introduce these girls to industry. We need to guide them
through it and agents need to take a stand and say no."
With Barkan leading the way to say no, teenage girls and all of society will be the winners. And that is a real thing of beauty.
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