Bill Blass brought to mind the famous Newton image of "Le Smoking" in the Parisian alley, with a collection full of masculine and feminine elements coming together in a palette of grays, blacks and creams with pops of magenta, topaz and amethyst.
Models stormed out to the powerful strains of "Enjoy the Silence." The moody hit ballad by Depeche Mode intertwined with an instrumental string version throughout the show, perhaps to drive home that this collection may have had its powerful retro references but still retained its distinct classical elements. Watching the 47 looks float past us, we were struck by not only the collection's beauty, but its desirability.
Mary Alice Stephenson, Harper's Bazaar contributing editor and VH1 star, couldn't agree more. "This is what a rebirth of a house is about. Herve Leger – blah. Halston – boring. This was wow. I think a lot of times it takes growth. But he didn't need that, just, what, three months? These are clothes I want to wear and I've never worn Bill Blass in my life!"
With show notes that quoted Helmut Newton's book Sleepless Nights , Phi designer Andreas Melbostad made it clear where he was going. It was a tough, chic collection built around iconic sartorial items from the '80s: bustiers, tutus, zip-front skirts and bike pants. Reinventing these items using lace, tulle, wool crepe, cashmere and shearling with accents of patent leather and splashes of teal, orange and fuchsia, Mr. Melbostad sent out 31 looks that brought to mind Gianni Versace.
"It's a great nod to the early '80s," said Padma Lakshmi, host of Bravo's Top Chef, following the Phi show. "That sort of Day-Glo fluorescent, tights with the fishnets, reminded me of the darker, edgier Betsy Johnson. I have a lot of Phi pieces and I think they're very wearable and sexy."
"I've been a big supporter of Vera's since I was first nominated for an Emmy," Mariska Hargitay said before Ms. Wang's fall show earlier on Thursday. The Law & Order: SVU star was backstage before the show and gave us her take on the collection. "I thought it was inspired and spectacular. It made me so excited for fall."
The show had Ms. Wang herself excited, too. The designer described the sculptural collection following the show.
"It was minimalist but it wasn't minimalist." Translation: Minimalism is about stripping design down to its essentials. Ms. Wang chose very sturdy fabrics, which she allowed to carry themselves, with pleating (big trend) and twisting providing beautiful volume. The collection seemed somber only from a distance, with every shade of charcoal imaginable surging through felts, cashmeres, hammered satin and organza, topped off by spectacular jewelry.
She hit the trends we are seeing this week. Subdued florals, beastly furs (including a stunning patchwork mink coat) and pops of yellows and oranges.
Calvin Klein designer Francisco Costa took shapely cues from Japanese designers Thursday afternoon and showcased a collection full of dark geometric looks that folded over the body to create shape. While oversize blazers and sleek voluminous coats hinted at masculinity, the evening looks were the biggest surprise. Barneys New York's fashion director (and former Dallasite) Julie Gilhart said, "I loved this show and I think Francisco did a great job. I especially loved the beautiful accordion pleats." The show closed with shimmering pleated metallic silk dresses that were far from minimal – they were full-on sexy.
We see the light at the end of the fashionable tunnel, and today is the last day of Fashion Week. It ends with a huge bang with Ralph Lauren, Sean John and, finally, Marc Jacobs at the New York State Armory this evening. Let's hope it actually starts on time because we've got an early flight back to Dallas the next day.
