The dual-ended Kohl Pen & Concealer product looks decidedly
un-girly (it resembles a Bic Rollerball pen) so you can easily stash it
in your coat pocket for eyeliner touch-ups later. Hey, don’t judge — it
worked for Johnny Depp in “Pirates of the Caribbean.
Male
make-up - largely the undetectable kind that takes the average man
closer to the chiselled ideal - is now on the market. Our
man-in-mascara wore it for a month: on the Tube, in the office, at the
pub. Here's his verdict
Call that mascara, mate? And I can see
your foundation,' says Lionel, a 28-year-old South African with a
straggly beard, hard-hat and luminous jacket who clearly wasn't
appreciating my new-found metrosexuality. Thanks, my friend - I was
already feeling self-conscious enough without being mocked by passing
strangers. To underline his point he then started laughing and pointing
at my face.
Moisturiser is passe. Even the most hardened brickie
indulges in a regular facial wash and toning routine. Where the real
adventure starts, and where the future of man (apparently) lies, is
with make-up.
For the past month I have given male make-up a
go. I've woken early, religiously washed and moisturised my face,
applied tints, bronzed my cheeks, defined my eyebrows and jaw line,
powdered my nose to remove shine, put on lipstick, and added mascara
for good measure.
In the early days, leaving the house was a
fraught exercise. As I stepped over the threshold, my face a picture of
delicate hues, I'd lose my nerve and scurry back inside for a last look
in the mirror. But as the weeks passed, something odd happened: I began
to like it. It began to feel good.
Men - it's said - are now
more susceptible to anxieties about their body than ever before, but
according to recent research by make-up manufacturer Shiseido, British
men are also the leaders in Europe when it comes to forking out for
cosmetics. We may not be happy with how we look, but we're trying to do
something about it.
I started my journey to the dark side in the
Beyond Beauty department of London's Harvey Nichols department store.
After a little cheerful preamble, Hilary Andrews, who supplies
cosmetics to tens of thousands of the nation's men through her website
mankind.co.uk, presented me with my first compact. Between the
wheatgrass shots, revitalising juice drinks and the high-maintenance
women cruising the aisles, I didn't know where to look. It was like an
episode of Queer Eye for the Straight Guy, only without the validation
of a TV camera pointed at my face.
She then applied some St
Tropez bronzer, some anti-shine powder and under-eye concealer. I
returned to the office, not just a new man, but a newly decorated man.
When
in 1990, Naomi Wolf wrote The Beauty Myth, which attempted to unshackle
women from their make-up bags, the world was a different place. She
wrote, 'Men are exposed to male fashion models, but do not see them as
role models.' This no longer seems so self-evidently true.
Times
have changed: dress-down Fridays, dowdy pinstripes replaced by well-cut
suits with flashy linings from celebrity tailors, and the broadening
effect of metrosexual 'style icons' such as David Beckham ... If
received wisdom has it that women have increasingly become more like
men, maybe we should ask - in the manner of one of Carrie Bradshaw's
questions that drove Sex and the City - are men becoming more like
women?
Saturday night and it sure felt that way. My girlfriend
and I were off to the cinema. With around an hour in which to get
ready, we fought over the mirror - something that has never, ever
happened before, honest - to apply our various cosmetics before heading
out to watch Brad Pitt in a skirt in Troy. The process of moisturising,
slapping on the under-eye concealer, and powdering my nose took far
longer than planned and so we missed the start of the film by about 15
minutes. So far, so bad.
But it got worse. About 45 minutes into
the film there is a scene in which Paris fights Menelaus and we get a
close up of Helen's famous face, tearful and distraught. It's a moment
of high tension. Will she lose the man she loves? Will disaster for
Troy be averted? Who cares? As the sword swung to deliver the fatal
blow, my girlfriend turned to me and said: 'They've only made up one of
her eyes!' Horrifyingly, I'd spotted it too.
Following Wolf,
should I now think that to fulfil my potential as a man I need to look
like Pitt? I'm not convinced by much of the 'crisis of masculinity'
chatter, but this make-up malarky does make you aware of your own
physical failings.
I call Ben Coler who runs Studio5ive.com, an
American online male make-up provider, for his thoughts. He's got about
10,000 clients on his database from the US, the UK, Canada, New Zealand
and Australia. He started the business in 2000 and now stocks about 30
products to help give men that 'undetectable look' - a wellgroomed,
chiselled, masculine image. 'Guys look in the mirror and see a face
that is average,' he says. 'They see these ideal men and want a
chiselled jaw and a really masculine look.' Undetectable makeup, he
says, is the answer.
For many women, wearing make-up is the
default setting: you only notice when it's not there. Women friends of
mine tell me they think twice about exposing their naked face to a new
partner too soon in a relationship for fear of what he might think.
Will I soon feel the same?
Coler explains that male make-up has
three broad purposes: to correct blemishes; to create an androgynous
look with eye-shadow and lip colour; and to make a face look more
masculine, closer to those that feature on our screens and in our
magazines. The solution, Coler says, is in the colour palette. His
company has analysed male faces and created a range that only uses
colours from the natural male palette (there are no bright blues, pinks
or reds). The pale blue-grey from the eye-socket can be used to
highlight the eyebrows or define the beard and jaw line for example.
Coler
told me that men are terrified of getting it wrong, of standing out as
the guy who wears make-up. His company receives the majority of its
orders between 11pm and 2am from new experimenters keen on privacy.
These are not men who want to look like Boy George in his prime.
I
set up a lesson with make-up artist extraordinaire Kate Strong. She's
done everyone from the Stones to Paddy Ashdown, so hopefully I don't
pose too much of a challenge. She showed me how to get a blemish-free
face without looking like Eddie Izzard. She lightened my deep-set eyes,
darkened my brows, picked out my eyelashes with mascara and bronzed my
cheeks. Looking in the mirror I couldn't say precisely what had
changed, but I definitely looked better, healthier.
So far, the
main focus of the make-up industry has been correction: to make men
look better but natural. But there are signs that an attempt at
decoration is now emerging, and the key for cosmetics brands is to find
a way through the conundrum of creating 'non-girly' make-up for real
men.
Jean Paul Gaultier is the latest designer to enter the
market. Last year he launched his Le Male Tout Beau line which, far
from being the camp excess one would imagine, is of a subdued masculine
design, with colours designed to enhance rather than draw attention to
the features. Kate was impressed. The bronzer comes in a black Perspex
cube with a large sable brush. The lipstick is a dark chocolate colour
that blends well with your lips. There is lip-gloss, too, but that, I
think, is a step too far - it gives you soft-porn lips that wouldn't
look out of place in a Kylie video. On Kylie.
Terminology is
crucial. Where female make-up is all lipstick and soft powders, male
make-up, the branding would like to convince you, is 'war paint for the
21st-century urban man'. The concealer I'd got from Mankind is dubbed a
'Camo Stick'. The word make-up is used sparingly. Where female products
talk of 'exfoliating', male products are all 'scrubbing', and so on.
It's the old 'Horses sweat, men perspire and ladies merely glow' idea
updated.
After initial, disparaging remarks, friends, when
informed, were curious rather than rejecting. 'Really?' They asked in
disbelief. Then, 'You can't tell,' said with a hint of disappointment.
One even said he'd seen the compact in Men's Health and assumed it was
'for cocaine', which I suppose is one way of passing off the fact
you've got make-up on your person.
Female friends had mixed
views. My friend, Hannah thought it 'a bit weird. There's no need, is
there? Men are meant to be rough and ready.' Several suggested they
felt shackled to make-up. Would it be good for men to feel the same
way? Some said that going without felt like exposing yourself in
public. I had perhaps an equal and opposite reaction. For me, the oddly
caked feeling of my made-up face left me uncomfortable and lacking
confidence. On escalators or in the lift at work I found myself staring
at my feet, looking away from people and not meeting their eyes. It
took time to adjust.
However, as the days went by the make-up
started to feel occasionally like a welcome addition. If you stick to
the basics - a quick brush of bronzer (the equivalent, I think, of
women's blusher), a dab of under-eye concealer and a quick bit of
anti-shine powder (guys sweat more, apparently) - you really can look
better, healthier.
And with my new found confidence I became
more at ease trying out my face on fellow commuters. As calmly as
possible I powdered my nose and started drawing a wiggly line of
lipstick around my mouth. From the way the men reacted, I'd say Britain
is not yet ready for this.
Later, on the Tube, a girl in her
early twenties sat next to me. She kept catching my eye and smiling.
Then I remembered I was in full make-up: perhaps I was looking pretty.
Time to brazen it out. I pulled out the compact and checked my make-up
- yup, still there. I looked back at her and she gave me a look, the
sort of highly articulate look that managed to say both 'drop dead' and
'weirdo' at the same time. She got off at the next station without
looking back.
'Cosmetics can do miracles,' Ben Coler had told
me. 'They give you instant results, boost confidence and make you feel
more handsome.' All true. In future, I may even be tempted to put on a
bit of bronzer if I'm heading out for the evening. But lipstick and
mascara?
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