Commonwealth Utilities
Fleet Week meets Wall Street. Anthony Keegan and Richard Christiansen
successfully and cohesively blended these contrasting styles into a
black/gray plaid flannel blazer paired with flat-coated gray denim
straight jeans, chunky cable-knit fisherman's sweaters worn over long
johns and socks, and, what was for me, the real winner: a tuxedo shirt
and black skinny jean under distressed black leather trench coat. The
raw artistry and hip young vibe (the show was held in the raw and
unfinished NoMad Hotel) will probably ensure the collection is a big
seller.
Calvin Klein
Italo Zucchelli presented his second collection since taking over as
Men’s Creative Director for Calvin Klein. A bold, forward-thinking
collection that featured stellar outerwear, it also included a
patterned gray and black suit in made from traditional menswear suiting
that was a standout. However, it was the synthetic fabrics that proved
most directional and unique. A shiny synthetic-fabric suit with
elastic cuffs seemed, at first, like disposable (but tailored)
coveralls a city worker might wear for a night out...was Zuccelli
mocking the disposability of fashion? However, as I watched the models
walk, I realized these could actually represent the ultimate comfort
suit and reassessed my initial reaction. Both of the versions - one in
black and one in grey over an identically colored t-shirt or
button-down shirt - gave off a futuristic vibe that indicated Calvin
Klein was taking a giant fashion step forward.
Perry Ellis
If Calvin Klein was busy taking big steps forward, John Crocco at Perry
Ellis was more measured in his attempt to update the Perry Ellis image.
The 42 runway looks were mostly identifiably "Perry Ellis" in style,
including the standout goat-skin blouson and velvet evening jacket.
The Buffalo Bills receiver, Terrell Owens, was seated in front of me
and based on his enthusiastic nodding, I expect that some of the looks
are going to enjoy the spotlight yet again as TO discusses his latest
performance on the field.