London’s first ever digital London Fashion Week comes to a close
today, with Simone Rocha, Daniel Fletcher and Erdem among the highlights
still to show on today’s gender-neutral schedule.
Unlike last season when there were a smattering of socially distanced shows, there were no in-person events or runways to attend. Instead designers released innovative digital content to a timed schedule: from Preen’s blissfully bucolic campaign video filmed on a country estate, to Bora Aksu’s audience-free runway show filmed in Tate Britain.
While I, like many editors, miss the intimacy and excitement of a real-life event, the new format did not detract from the evident talent on show, with designers delivering exciting collections that, in embracing tailoring, outdoor and party wear, spoke to a life post-vaccine.
From camping gear to clubwear, these were clothes to remind us of the joy of dressing and to ready us for anything — anything but the sofa.
Balaclavas and Bonnets
berets to balaclavas and bonnets, next winter headgear will go haute.
At Edward Crutchley and Preen floral quilted scarves were tied
bonnet-like around the head, while at Sonia Carrasco apple green
balaclavas made from recycled wool and cashmere were built into roll
necks. At Eudon Choi knit balaclavas worn with ball gowns and suiting
took on an indoor feel.
all this time stuck in Blighty, many designers looked to the land of
Albion for inspiration. Molly Goddard refreshed quintessentially British
items like herringbone tweed and Fair Isle knits in highlighter hues
and paired them with her signature frothy tulle. Bora Aksu’s
puff-sleeved red tartan taffeta gown was begging to be spun about a
Highland reel, while Vivienne Westwood’s green plaid trousers belonged
we prepare to bid adieu to two-dimensional Zoom dressing, back details
have shot to the fore. At Osman and Temperley, slinky dresses came with
latticed backs, while at Eudon Choi cosy knits came with rear ribbon
office life as we knew it has an uncertain future, come autumn we’ll be
ready to resume structured dressing in some form. Several designers,
among them Palmer Harding, Bora Aksu and Emilia Wickstead, offered smart
wool jersey separates and soft-silhouetted tailoring that works as well
for the home office as it does the boardroom.
the year homeware became more important than handbags, fashion’s design
darlings turned their attention to our surroundings. Colville launched
hand-blown Murano glass vases in primary colours and buoyant stripes
that echoed the collection. At Preen, gothic floral dresses and quilted
bonnets accompanied a range of chintzy floral cushions from the Preen
Home line — perfect for camouflaging on the sofa.
Tok teens have decreed skinny jeans to be over. Whether you agree or
not, LFW had many an oversized baggy trouser to tempt you out of your
drainpipes. At Acne, giant baggy tweed trousers were paired with
oversized golfing knits while menswear label Labrum London paired unisex
deep pleat wide-leg cotton trousers with ruffled tops for a laid-back
a packed sweaty dancefloor? So was 16Arlington, which delivered some
club classics as part of its feather and leather-heavy collection.
Fishnets? Check. Cobalt blue patent leather midi? Check. Neon orange
fuzzy coat for peacocking at the bouncer in the queue? You betcha.
The new erogenous zone
your décolletage or derrière, for the hip bone is officially the new
erogenous zone. Max Zara Sterck did black jumpsuits with chic slashes at
the pelvic bone, while Sonia Carrasco’s suiting championed the hippest
of hip holes.
most of us destined for UK holidays this year, designers delivered
clothing for camping weekends and hiking retreats. Riccardo Tisci’s
first menswear-only presentation for Burberry was dedicated to
countryside rambles — “enclosed indoors, I dreamt of the outdoors and
its beauty,” said the designer. Mark Fast offered neon iterations of
outdoorsy fleeces and hiking boots.
fashion’s mission to be more mindful, upcycling continues to gather
pace. Liam Hodges reworked vintage T-shirts and Matty Bovan sewed
upcycled Swarovski crystals onto belts and skirts. Sustainability poster
girl Bethany Williams released a super cool unisex collection of
colourful coats created from upcycled blankets, the proceeds from which
will go to The Magpie Project, a charity that supports women and
children living in temporary, unsuitable or no accommodation. Shop them
at Selfridges now.