Celebrating the history of style, the Palais Galliera, the City of Paris Fashion Museum has just opened a new exhibition, A History of Fashion. Collecting & Exhibiting at the Palais Galliera. With more than 350 pieces on display, the showcase features both era-defining and rarely shown garments, accessories, and archival images from the museum’s collections. Through both chronological and thematic stories, this exhibit discovers mode hallmarks from the 18th century to the present day.
Highlights of the exhibition commence with historic, era-specific pieces such as the 18th century wardrobe of the Comtesse Greffulhe and robe volante. Then opulent patterns and fabrics of the 1920s are shown alongside quintessential '50s Christian Dior cocktail dresses. While ‘80s maximalism from Thierry Mugler and Christian LaCroix contrasts with ‘90s Comme des Garçons' minimalism and avant-garde looks from Rick Owens.
Recent stylings such as a Spring/Summer 2017 Chanel ensemble by Karl Lagerfeld round out this lengthy tour of fashion’s past and present. “There is the idea that people are most interested in new collections and designers’ work,” Miren Arzalluz, Palais Galliera director tells L’OFFICIEL. “Yet people also want to discover more about fashion history and the iconic designers, who are the foundations of what we see today.”
Beyond the presentation’s chronology, the ideas behind the garments-even those centuries old-offer a relevant, conceptual feel that speaks to our cultural moment. “The exhibition has a classical framework and specific themes within that,” explains Arzalluz. “The museum approaches fashion from different angles-fashion as art, political statements, and sociology. There are rich, diverse perspectives to interpret fashion within the collections.”
Balenciaga evening dress and cape Fall/Winter 1961 © Stanislas Wolff / Paris Musées, Palais Galliera.
Jean Paul Gaultier "cage" dress Spring/Summer 1989 © Stanislas Wolff / Paris Musées, Palais Galliera.
A special feature of the show is the museum’s founding donation, the collection of the Société de l’histoire du costume. Initially given to the City of Paris in 1920, this exceptional contribution marks its 100-year anniversary as the base for the museum’s collections. From this first acquisition, the Palais Galliera has developed its archives into the comprehensive collective of style represented today.
Another revelation of the exhibit is the museum’s thoughtful approach to curating its collections. Since its founding in 1977, the Palais Galliera has focused on creating a varied yet cohesive design compilation throughout history. “As a museum, we introduce fashion as far more than dresses, designers, and anecdotes,” says Arzalluz. “We see fashion as a phenomenon that reflects society and constructs identities. It is a powerful expression of feelings, ideas, and the entirety of the world around us.”
Thierry Mugler, evening suit Fall/Winter 1986 © Stanislas Wolff / Paris Musées, Palais Galliera.
A History of Fashion unfolds through pinnacle moments of style. Across the centuries, designers have communicated creative and cultural views using garments as their conceptual mirrors. Like a time capsule of chic, this showcase offers an aesthetic history that memorializes fashion as a major influence, echoing our greater, global society.
A History of Fashion. Collecting & Exhibiting at the Palais Galliera is on view at the Palais Galliera in Paris in a two-part presentation-October 2, 2021 to March 13, 2022 and April 2, 2022 to June 26, 2022.
