Dublin-born designer Paul Costelloe kicked off the week on Sunday in white tents on the London Natural History Museum's front lawn, followed by science fiction-inspired, "New Generation" designer Jean-Pierre Braganza's show at the Royal Academy of Arts. London Fashion Week has quadrupled its content since the British Fashion Council started hosting the event in 1994, and this season marked a few firsts. British designer Vivienne Westwood is returning to London's shows for her first season in nine years, and Jaeger London, a 122-year-old luxury brand, made its first appearance Sunday.

Still, most of London's best-known designers show elsewhere. Matthew Williamson and Temperley London showed in New York. Burberry shows in Milan. Stella McCartney shows in Paris.

The runway will feature young designers like Christopher Kane, who is showing his highly praised collection for a fourth season, alongside veterans like Betty Jackson, who has been showing in London since Kane was born. Ex-Vogue journalist Luella Bartley is returning to show her line, "Luella," for a second season in London.

The Topshop-sponsored program "New Generation" continues for its 15th year, supporting designers who have been in business for three years or less, and an exhibition of ethically minded and green fashion, "estETHICa," is in its fourth season at fashion week.

Exhibitors hope the attention and the glitz will translate into orders, even though more press and attention has tended to follow the shows in Paris and New York. Shoe designer Meher Kakalia finds London interesting because it is smaller.

"Paris is a big market, but London is special," she said, adding that it gave her the chance of "really letting the imagination take over."

Associated Press Writer Danica Kirka contributed to this story.